Record Details

Laundering performance of Wurlan finished wool fabrics including soil detection by x-ray fluorescent spectroscopy

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Title Laundering performance of Wurlan finished wool fabrics including soil detection by x-ray fluorescent spectroscopy
Names Borchardt, Marilyn Ruth (creator)
Bubl, Janet L. (advisor)
Date Issued 1968-12-16 (iso8601)
Note Graduation date: 1969
Abstract The main goals of this study were: (1) to develop a combination
of soiling, laundering, and soil detection procedures which would be
accurate, reproducible, and relatively rapid; (2) to develop a quantitative
method to detect artificial soil on fabrics by X-ray fluorescent
spectroscopy; (3) to compare unfinished and Wurlan finished (poly-amide interfacial polymerized) plain and twill weave wool fabrics
for soil retention after 20 launderings; (4) to determine the effectiveness
of the Wurlan finish on these woolen fabrics by measurement
of shrinkage and breaking strength after laundering.
These wool fabrics were artificially soiled by immersion in
a mixed oil containing 50% dibromostearic acid, dried and then
tumbled with a dry kaolinite clay. Soil and shrinkage specimens
were laundered with an all-purpose, hot-water anionic detergent
at 120°F. for five minutes by using either gentle or no agitation.
Shrinkage specimens were also laundered with a cold-water, nonionic
detergent under the same conditions.
Count rates obtained from X-ray fluorescent spectroscopy of
aluminum and bromine on soil retention specimens were converted
to percentages of clay and oil respectively by comparison to fabric
with known percentages of these soils. This method is faster than
ashing and extraction, more accurate than color difference, less
costly than neutron activation analysis, and easier than radioactive
liquid scintillation.
There was a significant buildup of oil, but not of clay on these
fabrics over the period of this study. Wurlan finished fabrics retained
slightly more clay than the unfinished wool fabrics. This may
be due to an affinity of the Wurlan finish for clay or mechanical entrapment
of the clay in the fabric-finish structure. The plain weave
fabrics retained similar amounts of oil, but the Wurlan finished
twill weave fabric retained considerably more oil than the unfinished
twill weave fabric. This difference in oil retention may also have
resulted from an affinity of the finish for oil, but could reflect the
felting of the unfinished twill weave fabric which made deep penetration
of oil applied more difficult. There was significantly more
clay and two to four times more oil retained by these fabrics when laundered without agitation than with gentle agitation.
While gentle agitation resulted in better removal of soil, it also caused excessive shrinkage of the unfinished wool fabrics. There
was significantly more warp shrinkage during the early launderings,
particularly for the unfinished wool fabrics. The dimensions of the
Wurlan finished fabrics were stable after ten launderings, while the
unfinished fabrics continued to shrink at the 20th laundering. Wurlan
finished wool fabrics shrank less than 2% in both warp and filling
after 20 launderings. The shrinkage of fabrics laundered with
standard anionic detergent and cold-water nonionic detergent was not
significantly different.
Wurlan finish increased the warp grab breaking strength of the
plain weave fabric, but did not alter that of the twill weave fabric.
Limited ravelled strip breaking strength tests indicated that Wurlan
finish increased the strength per warp yarn of both fabrics. Unfinished
twill weave fabric laundered at gentle agitation with both detergents
had a significantly higher warp grab breaking strength than the
unlaundered twill weave fabric, possibly because excessive shrinkage
increased the compactness of this fabric, The breaking strengths of
the Wurlan finished fabrics after 20 launderings were similar to those
of the unlaundered fabrics. The breaking strength and shrinkage
tests seem to indicate that the Wurlan finish produced a washable
wool fabric which resulted in satisfactory performance for the length
of this study. These fabrics can be laundered with gentle agitation,
moderately hot water, and an all- purpose, hot water synthetic
detergent.
Genre Thesis/Dissertation
Topic Clothing and dress -- Care
Identifier http://hdl.handle.net/1957/46633

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