Record Details

Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope

ScholarsArchive at Oregon State University

Field Value
Title Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope
Names Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. (creator)
Holman, Robert A. (creator)
Date Issued 1985-11-20 (iso8601)
Note Copyrighted by American Geophysical Union.
Abstract Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone, wave energy became saturated, and wave height was strongly dependent on depth. However, the ratio of rms wave height to local depth (Yrms) was found not to be constant but to vary between 0.29 and 0.55; Yrms increased with local slope and was independent of deepwater wave steepness. Thus the surf zone similarity parameter (the ratio of slope to the square root of steepness) did not adequately parameterize Yrms.
Genre Article
Identifier Sallenger, A., Jr., and R. Holman (1985), Wave Energy Saturation on a Natural Beach of Variable Slope, J. Geophys. Res., 90(C6), 11939-11944.

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