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Intersite comparison of interannual nearshore bar behavior

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Title Intersite comparison of interannual nearshore bar behavior
Names Ruessink, B. G. (creator)
Wijnberg, K. M. (creator)
Holman, R. A. (creator)
Kuriyama, Y. (creator)
van Enckevort, I. M. J. (creator)
Date Issued 2003 (iso8601)
Note copyrighted by American Geophysical Union
Abstract Long-term (>years) bathymetric data sets collected in six multiple near-shore sandbar
systems were analyzed with complex empirical orthogonal function analysis to quantify
intersite differences and similarities in cyclic offshore progressive bar behavior. The
observations came from a 37-year annually sampled data set of four regions along the
Dutch coast (spanning 70 km of coastline), an 18-year fortnightly to monthly sampled data
set at Duck, North Carolina (alongshore extent ~1 km), and a 7-year daily sampled data
set of a single cross-shore profile at the Hasaki coast of Japan. The first complex mode,
typically representing 50–70% of the total depth variance, described the long-term
offshore progressive behavior and allowed for an objective separation of the barred part of
the profile from the shoreward- and seaward-located nonbarred parts by considering a
threshold bar amplitude below which the spatial results from the first mode were not
considered reliable. The sandbars at the six examined sites share common lengths and
nondimensional amplitude characteristics, which can be described by a negatively skewed
Gaussian function. The absolute amplitude dimensions and the cycle return intervals
differ, however, considerably between the sites. The key geometric parameters that steer
this intersite variation are the time-averaged mean depths at the shoreward and seaward
side of the bar zone (dshore and dsea, respectively) as well as their difference dbz. The
degree to which intersite differences in dshore, dsea, and dbz are related linearly to intersite
differences in bulk statistics of external forcings (wave, tide, sediment, and bed profile
characteristics) is inconclusive.
Genre Article
Identifier Holman, R. A., Kuriyama, Y., Ruessink, B. G., van Enckevort, I. M. J., and Wijnberg, K. M., (2003), Intersite comparison of interannual nearshore bar behavior, J. Geophys. Res., 108, C8.

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