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The statistical distribution of swash maxima on natural beaches

ScholarsArchive at Oregon State University

Field Value
Title The statistical distribution of swash maxima on natural beaches
Names Holland, K. T. (creator)
Holman, Robert A. (creator)
Date Issued 1993 (iso8601)
Note copyrighted by American Geophysical Union
Abstract Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins (1956) describe the statistical distribution of maxima that would result
from the linear superposition of random, Gaussian waves. The distribution function depends solely upon the
relative width of the power spectrum and root-mean-square value of the process time series. Runup field
data from three experiments are presented to determine the extent to which the distribution of swash maxima
can be approximated using the Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins probability density function. The model is
found to be satisfactory for describing various distribution statistics including the average maxima, the
proportion of negative maxima, and the elevation at which one third of the swash maxima are exceeded.
However, systematic discrepancies that scale as a function of time series skewness are observed in the
statistics describing the upper tail of the distributions. Although we conclude that the linear model is
incapable of delineating these apparent nonlinearities in the swash time series, the extent of the deviation
can be estimated empirically for the purpose of constraining nonlinear models and nearshore engineering
design.
Genre Article
Identifier Holland, K. T., and Holman, R. A. (1993), The statistical distribution of swash maxima on natural beaches. J. Geophys. Res., 98, C6.

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