Record Details
Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach
ScholarsArchive at Oregon State University
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| Title | Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach |
| Names |
Ruggiero, Peter
(creator) Holman, Robert A. (creator) Beach, R. A. (creator) |
| Date Issued | 2004 (iso8601) |
| Note | copyrighted by American Geophysical Union |
| Abstract | Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation varied by a factor of 2 along the 1.6 km study site, ranging from 26 to 61% of the offshore significant wave height, and was found to be linearly dependent on the local foreshore beach slope that varied by a factor of 5. Run-up motions on this high-energy dissipative beach were dominated by infragravity (low frequency) energy with peak periods of approximately 230 s. Incident band energy levels were 2.5 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the low-frequency spectral peaks and typically 96% of the run-up variance was in the infragravity band. A broad region of the run-up spectra exhibited an ƒ¯⁴ roll off, typical of saturation, extending to frequencies lower than observed in previous studies. The run-up spectra were dependent on beach slope with spectra for steeper foreshore slopes shifted toward higher frequencies than spectra for shallower foreshore slopes. At infragravity frequencies, run-up motions were coherent over alongshore length scales in excess of 1 km, significantly greater than decorrelation length scales on moderate to reflective beaches. |
| Genre | Article |
| Identifier | Beach, R. A., Holman, R. A., Ruggiero, P., Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach (2004), J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06025. |
